Citrus Arancine with Pecorino Cheese

Even if you don’t know what arancine is (and you probably don’t – I didn’t), doesn’t just the title make your mouth water?!

Christine found this recipe in the September 2009 issue of Bon Appetit. Granted, it’s not from one of our cookbooks, but we’re stepping outside the box. As Christine reminded me, “This blog is about two Iron Chefs – not about two cookbooks.” The Iron Chefs are, of course, us… ;-)

Arancine are deep-fried rice balls popular in Sicily, often made from leftover risotto (which is heaven in a dish already). The cool thing about this recipe is the cube of cheese hidden in the center of the rice ball and the golden fried breadcrumbs all over the outside of it. <blissful sigh> It’s truly a labor of love, because it takes a long time to make. Not labor-intensive, but you do need about a day to get this meal on the table.

We, being the premeditated and always prepared Iron Chefs that we are, made our risotto on Wednesday, although we knew we were serving the arancine on Thursday. On Wednesday morning, we threw ourselves into our aprons and started cooking arborio rice with white wine and chicken broth. The result was mouth-watering, creamy risotto, cooked to perfection and flavored with lemon, lime, and anise seed. The recipe actually called for orange zest as well, but the lemon and lime were enough for us. They also used fennel, but we happened to have anise instead. Same difference.

So then, you’re supposed to spread out your beautiful risotto on a baking sheet and wait an hour for it to cool completely. Meanwhile, you make a milk/egg mixture, breadcrumbs, and cube some cheese. The recipe says pecorino…have you ever tried pecorino? I’m not a huge fan. It’s a tad strong for my delicate palate. ;-) Instead, we chose to use mozzarella. Perhaps our final result was not as flavorful, but we liked it better. The lesson here? Never be afraid to experiment and tweak recipes. The Makers of Recipes and Dreamers of Dreams are not infallible – your finished product may be just as good or better, or you may simply LIKE it better. Or your substitutions could be total failures and flops, in which case you might want to read some cookbooks before experimenting again. :-P

After the risotto cooled, we were back in the kitchen forming the balls. Christine cut the mozzarella WAY too big at first, so we had to trim the cubes down a little. We don’t need an arancine three inches in diameter, you know?? ;-) Once we got the hang of it, we were a well-oiled machine, forming, stuffing, dipping, and rolling those balls into submission. We couldn’t get over how great they looked, even uncooked!

I’ll admit it. The thought did cross my mind, very briefly, to skip the penne with spinach sauce that night and fry up our arancine instead…

…but we didn’t.

The following afternoon, we started heating up our oil. Our mom suggested using a thermometer, to ensure that the oil stayed at about 350 degrees while we fried. I rummaged around in the drawer for a while, looking for it. I found it – tiny, orange thing – but someone had left it on, and it was out of batteries. <irritated smirk> Guess not everyone can be an Iron Chef. So I thought I’d try using the meat thermometer – very high-tech thing from Williams-Sonoma – just to see where we were at. I stuck that probe in the oil and the thermometer went CRAZY. Then it occured to me that if meat/poultry/fish ever went over TWO HUNDRED degrees (let alone three hundred), it would be overdone and/or burnt. Since the oil is supposed to hang around 350, the meat thermometer *probably* wouldn’t be able to handle it. ;-S I removed it and put it away. Shh. Don’t tell anyone.

Anyway, we decided to do it “by touch”, to borrow the safecracking colloquialism. Meaning, no thermometer – just watch the frying food and adjust to achieve. :-D We [gently] threw in the first five balls and watched as they sizzled. Christine is an expert fryer (is that a good thing?), and she kept the balls turning and watched carefully until they looked done. We removed them and gazed in awe at our handiwork. <WOW> If you’ve ever been to The Cheesecake Factory, and ordered their Fried Macaroni and Cheese appetizer – THAT’S what these looked like. Never have I seen anything so beautiful. Ok, that didn’t sound right. But you catch my drift.

As we continued cooking the arancine, all we could say was, “Look how beautiful they are! Wow! Look at that perfectly-browned, crispy, breadcrumb crust!” Wow!”

We were surprised that the recipe did not include some kind of sauce to serve on top, or even on the side, of the balls. As we learned in our recent reading of The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman, *everything* should be served with a sauce of some sort. Even soup – which IS sauce, by itself (a concept that never occured to me). So we couldn’t very well serve the balls DRY. We put out a bowl of marinara, but we wanted something different, eclectic, and perfectly paired with the citrus, white wine, and anise flavors. We found the ideal recipe in one of Susie Fishbein’s books. It was a mayonnaise base, with apricot and lime. Fantastic.

When it was finally time to eat, we could not believe how incredible these arancine were! I mean, really. They looked so professional, with that golden-brown, crispy exterior; warm, creamy interior, culminating with the grand finale of the melting cheese cube in the very center. <even more blissful sigh> Absolutely divine. All four family members who were privileged to be there for dinner affirmed that they could have eaten all the arancine by themselves. Including me. :-)

On a scale from 1 to 10: 10++.

It doesn’t get better than this, people. In fact, maybe the Iron Chefs should retire early. Quit while they’re ahead. Stay on top with an excellent reputation. I don’t know. We can’t top this. It was perfect and delicious. My mom, Christine, and I all preferred the cold mayonnaise sauce to the marinara, but vice versa with my dad. So we’ll keep both on the menu for next time. Speaking of which…when IS next time?? ;-)

Grilled Portobello Mushrooms with Tomatoes & Fresh Mozzarella

<sigh> We had to revamp our menu for the rest of the month, since our mom thought our dinners too involved and fancy for weeknights. We’re trying to eat lighter throughout the week and save heavier, bigger, meatier dishes for Friday night. So, this being the case, we nixed the fried chicken recipe on Tuesday evening, August 18 (which, incidentally, was actor Edward Norton’s 40th birthday - our family always celebrates), and instead went with one of Ina Garten’s pasta salads (I know – <gasp> - that’s not from one of our chosen cookbooks! But it’s fine, because we put it with a Giada recipe :-D ). We served Giada’s grilled mushrooms on the side.

The pasta salad was easy enough to make, and since this blog is technically about cooking through our Tyler book and our Giada book, I’m not going to dwell on it. Very tasty, although sundried tomatoes packed in oil, even when drained, retain a peculiar flavor I find slightly unpleasant. But hey – that’s just me. Everyone else raved about it. :-D

So about the mushrooms. I am not a big mushroom fan. And these things were massive. Four inches in diameter, at least, and Giada’s recipe calls for mushrooms FIVE inches in diameter! Christine and I were really reaching out of our box on this one. Kind of exciting, in a way. I picked one up, gingerly. “Man, these things are huge! What are we supposed to do with them?” We lean over the cookbook together. “Stemmed. Hm. Guess that means…pull out this stem thing?” I tug on it gently. The mushroom promptly splits into two pieces, leaving the stem perfectly intact and still attached to the larger of the two pieces. :-S Christine looks at me with a smirk. “Nice, J. So much for being an Iron Chef.” She picks up another mushroom and expertly detaches the stem, without breaking anything. <sigh>

So after destemming the rest of our portobellos and trying, in vain, to do something creative with the broken one, we moved on. Brushed both sides with olive oil, and placed them on our preheated grill. Our dad has an awesome grill. It’s enormous, and it heats up in no time at all. Christine took care of flipping them at the appropriate time, while we both worked on getting the “filling” ready. The cubed mozzarella is the best part. Yum! I don’t know about you, but mozzarella is one of my favorite cheeses. That, mixed with diced tomatoes, a little garlic, a lot of olive oil, and some fresh basil, was a perfect topper for the mushrooms.

Oh, and our FAMILY isn’t into mushrooms either. So yeah, this was a big step for all of us. After tasting, I can tell you this much: it’s no wonder that there is such a thing as a portobello steak served in restaurants. Mushrooms are really “meaty”. Weird. Anyway, once I got my mind past the fact that I was eating fungus, I enjoyed this interesting meal. I really did.

Word to the wise: easy on the garlic. It goes a *long* way.

On a scale from 1 to 10: 6.

I ate it, I liked it all right, but it wasn’t my favorite. Would I make them again? Probably. And my mom thought they were delicious. This rating is mostly based on my personal opinion and palate. Try the recipe for yourself. See what you think. Pull yourself out of your box. You never know. ;-)

Spaghetti with Summer Squash & Tomatoes

It soon became apparent, as we started planning our menus, that with these two particular cookbooks, cooking straight through from page 1 to the index would not just be a challenge – it would be impossible. Tyler’s Ultimate is divided into the normal cookbook sections, like Fish, Poultry, Pasta, Appetizers, etc. And like a normal cookbook, he starts with the Appetizer section. Well…I don’t know about you, but my dad and brother wouldn’t be happy with an appetizer or two for dinner. ;-)

Therefore, we decided to popcorn the recipes, still with the goal of cooking all of them, eventually. We had two nights a week for the whole month of August for which to plan dinners. We tried for about half Tyler, half Giada. Sometimes we did mix and match – couldn’t help it!

The first night finally arrived. Tuesday, August 4. Our menu was Spaghetti with Summer Squash & Tomatoes with The Ultimate Chicken Wings with Curry-Lime Butter on the side. Mouth-watering. I know.

The real challenge comes with substitution. Frankly, I believe anyone can pick up a recipe, follow it, and have the resulting dish come out halfway decent. But our family eats Biblical kosher, many of us eat gluten-free, and one of us is even corn-free! It gets a little dicey (no pun intended) when you are trying to cook gourmet meals.

We started with the pasta dish, boiling the water and busily slicing vegetables. We put in more squash than Tyler called for, because we wanted to fill out the dish and make sure our mom got enough vegetables. ;-) We used rice pasta, since our gluten-free family members can’t have the real stuff. Other than that, and the ommission of the onion (not huge onion fans), we followed Tyler’s directions implicitly. And it was absolutely delicious! Our pasta was slightly sticky, that I’ll admit. But we’ll just rinse it more and use some olive oil next time. This recipe was a keeper.

While our vegetables were roasting and our water boiling, we started on the chicken. First of all, our mom HATES curry. So we completely removed the curry from the dish. We used thighs instead of wings – easier to eat. And – get this – we went to get the lime out of the refrigerator, only to discover (with horror) that we had no lime. None. And not even any bottled lime juice. We had to substitute with <gasp> lemon. So The Ultimate Chicken Wings with Curry-Lime Butter turned into The Not-So-Ultimate Chicken Thighs with Lemon Butter. :-D Like I said, substitution is the trickiest part of this game. Also, because we didn’t use wings, which have the skin still on them, our thighs never really browned up and looked slightly unappetizing when served. Presentation is 90% here, you know? Sure, they had fantastic flavor, and we had even added a little paprika into our butter sauce to get some much-needed color. But over all, I think we need to stick with wings next time, and definitely get some lime.

On a scale from 1 to 10? 7

I would have liked the pasta to be less sticky; the thighs needed more color and more zing in the flavor.

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